I’ve been in Ecuador for nearly 6 weeks, and I haven’t really written anything worth reading for 3 weeks. The fact is, it’s not that there isn’t enough to write, or enough inspiration, but actually that this gem of a country tucked away in its little corner, has so much going for it. The things I’ve seen, the people I’ve met and the places I have lived are enough for any great blog entry, but I don’t think my words can exceptionally describe this place enough. The fact though is how I set out to live and travel is mainly independently, meaning actually trying to find opportunities, projects, all away from the touristy attractions. They say you don’t really know a country until you travel in it.It hasn’t been hard to forget how small this country is, compared to my next country, Peru which is three times bigger than the UK, Ecuador in size can’t even match up. Anyone could spend ages seeing and doing everything Ecuador has, but would still never do it all. From the capital Quito, I spent time learning Spanish, but also doing some work with some professors from one of the country’s best Universities. I’ve been to the Orient (the Amazon basin). I’ve ridden and seen landscapes transform from city, past waterfalls, cloud forests and into the Amazon all from the handle bars of a bike on what’s said to be one of the country’s best roads. Cities worth a thousand words and I’ve also lived in landscapes worth losing your breath for but also learnt the Ecuadorian way of life.
My last city, Cuenca, hosts and distributes what I think is an interesting industry. While being the jewel of the south and possibly Ecuador, Cuenca didn’t even disappoint, easily outshining Quito but also greeting me with an admirable tease. Hailed a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999 because of its potential benefit and importance for humankind, the city agreed and from arrival it was clear how special it was just because of the peering architecture slowly revealed as I headed towards the square.My time in Cuenca made me question if we ever consider where some of the things we buy come from. Where the latest fashion has been imported from. Usually, it’s not China. Made in China doesn’t (always) mean thought up in China. My point? The Panama hat. Made famous by President Roosevelt when he opened the Panama Canal wearing one, but actual fact being, it’s an Ecuadorian export. The reeds used can only grow in Ecuador. So in turn I was interested in Cuenca for its hat industry, the city has a museum and factory all in one but as things go though, you can ask the right questions and come out with some interesting information. It took a while to get the right answer but we found out that the hats are made by some very skilled people in a village a few hours from Cuenca, then brought over to be finished. Needless to say, I wanted to go there and I did. The amount of skill involved in a Panama hat is a great deal and as an export, Panama hats seem to hold a high revenue. Eco-tourism all the way and with 0 air miles I bought myself a few handmade hats and then I had them personally finished. Proud purchase really.
Ecuador as a country is growing from what is said to be a “diamond in the rough” which is clear with all the small industries grouping together and creating what is the Ecuadorian economy. From tourism to oil to fashion, the country has the ability to do well within most industries. Two of the highest active volcanoes in the world, but also the furthest point from the Earth are in Ecuador. This country also has what is said to be the most diverse Eco system in the world within its Amazon.
One of the best projects I visited has to have been in the highlands where sits the brilliant place that is Salinas de Guaranda. Traditional meals for dinner EVERY night with the family and friends that I made. My time in the village (population under 300) was something else, I was off the beaten track with no one within reach for at least one whole hour. I loved that. The village represents one of Ecuador’s best community run development projects which at the time of start-up spread to other regions and changed the previous economic industry which was mining into something more suited for the 20th and 21st century. Salinas has so much significance that while I was there, the minister of culture for Ecuador was as well, recognizing the village for its importance within Ecuador, as a place, and as a micro economy distributing nationally and even globally to places like Europe.
Salinas makes some of the Ecuador’s best and most recognizable produce from cheese, to chocolate, to meat. I only intended to visit for a short time, but ended up staying there longer, I appreciated it that much, but also got more opportunities within that tiny village than could be expected in bigger cities. I worked, in a shop but also taught English, and learnt what I could about the community and Spanish.
All great in Ecuador really, but things haven’t been as smooth sailing as I describe them, I got to Cuenca having travelled in Ecuador in probably the worst week possible. The week just gone coincided with the festival of the dead which takes place at the beginning of November every year across Latin America. The holiday meant that everyone was travelling, and that made it difficult to travel and get to some of my projects and also find anywhere to stay. I didn’t even get to ride the legendary devils nose down a mountain cliff from the train’s roof. Believe me I tried hard, even going along to the next town. Another time.
One of the best projects I visited has to have been in the highlands where sits the brilliant place that is Salinas de Guaranda. Traditional meals for dinner EVERY night with the family and friends that I made. My time in the village (population under 300) was something else, I was off the beaten track with no one within reach for at least one whole hour. I loved that. The village represents one of Ecuador’s best community run development projects which at the time of start-up spread to other regions and changed the previous economic industry which was mining into something more suited for the 20th and 21st century. Salinas has so much significance that while I was there, the minister of culture for Ecuador was as well, recognizing the village for its importance within Ecuador, as a place, and as a micro economy distributing nationally and even globally to places like Europe.
All great in Ecuador really, but things haven’t been as smooth sailing as I describe them, I got to Cuenca having travelled in Ecuador in probably the worst week possible. The week just gone coincided with the festival of the dead which takes place at the beginning of November every year across Latin America. The holiday meant that everyone was travelling, and that made it difficult to travel and get to some of my projects and also find anywhere to stay. I didn’t even get to ride the legendary devils nose down a mountain cliff from the train’s roof. Believe me I tried hard, even going along to the next town. Another time.
Despite it all the week taught me a lot and made me think back to some of my Geography explaining “staycations” which England had about 50 years ago, which would explain the development changes and how holiday time everyone would flock round the country to the beach, places like Brighton and Blackpool would fill up like crazy. It’s easier to fly somewhere in Europe now though, so we flock elsewhere. In turn not so great for our tourist industry, but look at Ecuador, I’m sure it does well (.. sorry, I’m having a moment). Just a thought though. But then again if you think about it, there’s one climate in the UK, which usually is cold, but Ecuador has it all, the highlands are cold, the coast and the Orient are warm, snow-capped mountains. Enough said, in country tourism here can do it all.
I’m lucky enough to be writing this from a ranch in southern Ecuador, but I’m soon heading even further south to the border where I’m going to Peru. The plan is to keep going, and of course see what opportunities present themselves. Ecuador has been amazing and possibly I’ll come back, there’s a few projects waiting in this diamond in the rough, Galapagos being top of the list. All in all though, the best way to see a place is to be willing to accept what happens but also put yourself out there, wherever. Peru, I’m coming. Watch out.
I’m lucky enough to be writing this from a ranch in southern Ecuador, but I’m soon heading even further south to the border where I’m going to Peru. The plan is to keep going, and of course see what opportunities present themselves. Ecuador has been amazing and possibly I’ll come back, there’s a few projects waiting in this diamond in the rough, Galapagos being top of the list. All in all though, the best way to see a place is to be willing to accept what happens but also put yourself out there, wherever. Peru, I’m coming. Watch out.
Chau.
