Peru is like? Well..

A taxi picked up me and two of my travelling companions up from the ranch and we had to get to Peru, but first catch the bus. The ranch we stayed at was a while away from the bus station and on a slow dirt road, so in a careful rush we drove through. We finally got to the main road and to the station and could see the bus pulling out, but as if off the opening scene from an Indiana Jones movie our driver pulled up for that split second so the station attendant could point at the bus and we raced off, fourth gear, fifth gear similar to Hamilton tailing Massa but wanting to zoom past our driver honked and honked, swerving then finally streaming past to pull the bus over. I entered the bus, greeted by the drivers smirk and putting on my sombrero, definitely an Indiana Jones moment. Cue music and Welcome to Peru, land of the Inca’s, land of beauty and treasures.

We chose to enter the country from a less touristy border, fair enough, it took us a few days to get to any sizeable town but while making that trip, the sights along the way, and the people were so, I’m not sure, so something!  Towns huddled around green spaces, and even though it took us a few days to get ‘anywhere’ we did it in style, combi’s all the way with the locals!

The ruins at Kuelap

Peru is easily known for its vast tourist industry with everything from Inca ruins like Machu Picchu to some great surfs. There was a time however, when the Inca’s dominated this country, so it meant one heck of an advanced civilisation. Their methods so brilliant and questionable, like ‘how did they do that?’  So when the chance came to see a grand Inca site, rivalled by none other than Machu Picchu, we took it up. Kuelap. Northern Peru. Just like everything, it was pretty cool. If only because there weren’t many tourists?

Remembering that Peru is five times bigger than the UK, bus rides are long and a lot happened but eventually…

The view over Lima at sunset

I arrived in Lima and hadn’t been in a big city for a while, and it tends to be with places like Lima, you either love it or you hate it. It’s just another big city, but I liked it, I didn’t hate it, I liked it. I decided to see if any projects were going while I was in Lima and was lucky enough to find one volunteering with a charity for ‘disabled children’ called Peru Children’s Charity. Working with the charity was one of the best things I’ve done in a while, I got to be me. Do what I love to do. When I arrived, the Christmas nativity was fast approaching and they needed a hand, so I was able to help with the music, teach the music, take photographs and help with crafts.

The charity is based in northern Lima in one of the capitals poorest areas, unconnected with running water or a sewage system. Seeing the poverty in the area was astounding, the government had made various previous promises to help out but repeatedly failed. It was difficult to understand how a capital city could have such a wide social divide. The division is so wide that on the road leading to the centre, is a speed bump, seriously a speed bump, which separates the area that has running water and a sewage system, from the place that doesn’t. Terrible really, but it’s fair to mention the government have promised things will improve.

The street of the charity

Even with the circumstances, the children turned up every day, for therapy in what they needed (Speech, Physical etc). Everyday saw me greeted with a smile, I saw the amount of appreciation they have for every single person- abrazos (hugs)!

I had to keep my eyes really open, these weren’t disabled children, these were differently abled people, smiling, laughing and showing as much love and willingness to learn as any other person reading this is capable of. Every day the children would turn up and receive their therapy, whether it be physical or speech or whatever else, but after they would stay. It’s hard to believe that before the centre was opened three years ago, some of these people didn’t even have wheelchairs and had to go about on their backs.

The Godfathers

A few weeks passed and we somehow came to my last day, the day of the nativity play. Practise in check and it really did go well, baby Jesus, Mary, the three wise men. The festivities even included Minnie mouse! The culture around here says that the man who gives the most, however that may be, is the one who is the Godfather to the cause. I see that person as being  the founder but also the man who helped build the centre.


I was staying in Lima and commuted everyday two hours each way, and that wasn’t a problem, time is free but it’s also priceless, I was easily shocked with where I was but I enjoyed every minute & I learnt something every minute.  I’m amazed at how the few days I had planned, easily turned into a few weeks but I also appreciate the genuine smile that came at the end of it all.

I was always told to smile more!..

A bit of a treat, yesterday I went sand boarding and dune buggy-ing in the desert of Ica. A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! Especially because it was during sunset and when the last bit of light rolled from the different height of the dunes. TOP day. Now I’m in Nazca and going to Cusco in a bit, Cusco is where sits Machu Picchu! More to come, chau.

Me catching some sand in Peru's desert!

A hitchhiker's guide to Ecuador

I’ve been in Ecuador for nearly 6 weeks, and I haven’t really written anything worth reading for 3 weeks. The fact is, it’s not that there isn’t enough to write, or enough inspiration, but actually that this gem of a country tucked away in its little corner, has so much going for it. The things I’ve seen, the people I’ve met and the places I have lived are enough for any great blog entry, but I don’t think my words can exceptionally describe this place enough. The fact though is how I set out to live and travel is mainly independently, meaning actually trying to find opportunities, projects, all away from the touristy attractions. They say you don’t really know a country until you travel in it.

It hasn’t been hard to forget how small this country is, compared to my next country, Peru which is three times bigger than the UK, Ecuador in size can’t even match up. Anyone could spend ages seeing and doing everything Ecuador has, but would still never do it all. From the capital Quito, I spent time learning Spanish, but also doing some work with some professors from one of the country’s best Universities. I’ve been to the Orient (the Amazon basin). I’ve ridden and seen landscapes transform from city, past waterfalls, cloud forests and into the Amazon all from the handle bars of a bike on what’s said to be one of the country’s best roads. Cities worth a thousand words and I’ve also lived in landscapes worth losing your breath for but also learnt the Ecuadorian way of life.

My last city, Cuenca, hosts and distributes what I think is an interesting industry. While being the jewel of the south and possibly Ecuador, Cuenca didn’t even disappoint, easily outshining Quito but also greeting me with an admirable tease.  Hailed a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999 because of its potential benefit and importance for humankind, the city agreed and from arrival it was clear how special it was just because of the peering architecture slowly revealed as I headed towards the square.

My time in Cuenca made me question if we ever consider where some of the things we buy come from. Where the latest fashion has been imported from. Usually, it’s not China. Made in China doesn’t (always) mean thought up in China. My point? The Panama hat. Made famous by President Roosevelt when he opened the Panama Canal wearing one, but actual fact being, it’s an Ecuadorian export. The reeds used can only grow in Ecuador. So in turn I was interested in Cuenca for its hat industry, the city has a museum and factory all in one but as things go though, you can ask the right questions and come out with some interesting information. It took a while to get the right answer but we found out that the hats are made by some very skilled people in a village a few hours from Cuenca, then brought over to be finished.  Needless to say, I wanted to go there and I did. The amount of skill involved in a Panama hat is a great deal and as an export, Panama hats seem to hold a high revenue. Eco-tourism all the way and with 0 air miles I bought myself a few handmade hats and then I had them personally finished. Proud purchase really.

Ecuador as a country is growing from what is said to be a “diamond in the rough” which is clear with all the small industries grouping together and creating what is the Ecuadorian economy. From tourism to oil to fashion, the country has the ability to do well within most industries. Two of the highest active volcanoes in the world, but also the furthest point from the Earth are in Ecuador. This country also has what is said to be the most diverse Eco system in the world within its Amazon.

One of the best projects I visited has to have been in the highlands where sits the brilliant place that is Salinas de Guaranda. Traditional meals for dinner EVERY night with the family and friends that I made. My time in the village (population under 300) was something else, I was off the beaten track with no one within reach for at least one whole hour. I loved that. The village represents one of Ecuador’s best community run development projects which at the time of start-up spread to other regions and changed the previous economic industry which was mining into something more suited for the 20^th and 21^st century. Salinas has so much significance that while I was there, the minister of culture for Ecuador was as well, recognizing the village for its importance within Ecuador, as a place, and as a micro economy distributing nationally and even globally to places like Europe.

Salinas makes some of the Ecuador’s best and most recognizable produce from cheese, to chocolate, to meat. I only intended to visit for a short time, but ended up staying there longer, I appreciated it that much, but also got more opportunities within that tiny village than could be expected in bigger cities.  I worked, in a shop but also taught English, and learnt what I could about the community and Spanish.

All great in Ecuador really, but things haven’t been as smooth sailing as I describe them, I got to Cuenca having travelled in Ecuador in probably the worst week possible. The week just gone coincided with the festival of the dead which takes place at the beginning of November every year across Latin America. The holiday meant that everyone was travelling, and that made it difficult to travel and get to some of my projects and also find anywhere to stay. I didn’t even get to ride the legendary devils nose down a mountain cliff from the train’s roof. Believe me I tried hard, even going along to the next town. Another time.

Despite it all the week taught me a lot and made me think back to some of my Geography explaining “staycations” which England had about 50 years ago, which would explain the development changes and how holiday time everyone would flock round the country to the beach, places like Brighton and Blackpool would fill up like crazy. It’s easier to fly somewhere in Europe now though, so we flock elsewhere. In turn not so great for our tourist industry, but look at Ecuador, I’m sure it does well (.. sorry, I’m having a moment). Just a thought though. But then again if you think about it, there’s one climate in the UK, which usually is cold, but Ecuador has it all, the highlands are cold, the coast and the Orient are warm, snow-capped mountains. Enough said, in country tourism here can do it all.

I’m lucky enough to be writing this from a ranch in southern Ecuador, but I’m soon heading even further south to the border where I’m going to Peru. The plan is to keep going, and of course see what opportunities present themselves. Ecuador has been amazing and possibly I’ll come back, there’s a few projects waiting in this diamond in the rough, Galapagos being top of the list. All in all though, the best way to see a place is to be willing to accept what happens but also put yourself out there, wherever. Peru, I’m coming. Watch out.

Chau.