Patagonia and all it's wonders

Home is where my bag is

The next part of this entry starts abruptly just after the one below. Having arrived in Argentina and spent a few days in the northern city of Salta- beautiful place, but then gotten onto a bus heading south to Mendoza. 18 hours. I did everything and saw enough but since the start of my travels, I've been looking forward to getting as far south as possible and seeing Patagonia. This part in my trip had been the most unplanned but I knew what I wanted, independent travel, something new and that bit more uncomfortable. I knew all I needed was a tent. 

No hostels, none of the comforts. Believe me when I say I've pushed my body.

A casual sunday stroll through Torres Del Paine

Any map would show how large Patagonia is, and at a size twice that of some of the countries I visited further north, it’s an awe inspiring wild destination filled with beauty, ruggedness and sounds unmatched by others. Imagination runs wild just at the thought of Patagonia with aged forests, marching glaciers, treasured scapes, incredible wildlife and even clear night skies that open up to the further extent of beauty that climbs up and over the planet. Wild and untamed, Patagonia was sure to be a challenge and only a few dare to seriously challenge the notorious Patagonian climate. Through the day, through the night, exposed and under the stars without a solid roof. Sure, home comforts can easily be found but where's the challenge? Natures sights, natures sounds, natures extremity.

I started the journey solo and around what some consider the Lake District part of Argentinia, but some consider Patagonia. The first of many nights in a tent went well, and funny enough I was camping right next to a lake. That’s when everything opened up, with first the night skies that gave me a continuous view over the wonders above to the next night with insight into some people’s simple way of life. Eventually I was in a rhythm and would go days and even weeks without needing to speak English.

Summer time is the best time to travel in Patagonia, more is open, weathers better, but you still get cold nights. You give some, you lose some. My time was always filled and with National Parks and everything, everyday had a hike. I went to Junin, San Martin, Bariloche, Esquel and a whole other heap of places, the weather had even been on my side, until when I reached Bariloche which meant a few days waiting out on the weather, rain, rain and more rain. Time is slow down in Patagonia but supposedly for the better, patience is a virtue and each day brings something new. Camping out from the city meant a long trek but with the chocolate capital of Argentina, Bariloche was worth the trek after a few days in the rain. All I can tell you is chocolate is sweeter when it’s free and warm.

After a few days doing all, I’d cover some distance due south on Argentina’s buses, easy enough and worth it each time. On one day I had an 18 hour wait for a bus, in a terminal without luggage storage, so literally 18 hours just sitting. Yeah I know, and it was a 12 hour ride once the bus had gotten there, but I got through it.

Empty trails!

I’ve seen a few national parks, and fallen in love with a few as well. I visited El Chalten, Argentina’s trekking capital and stayed there for a few days, with a 35km hike on one day, and hours more the other days. I couldn't help it, my feet found a rhythm in that place and I loved just being there, it happened that if I planned everything right and down to the T, I could be in places and be the only one, and although the national park in Chalten wasn't that busy, it could get crowded. Despite it all and with perfectly planned treks, I saw most things in the park. Mountains, lagoons and backdrops from ancient National Geographic magazines. Being in Chalten, just wowed me. Easily one of my favourite places in the World.

Living within the boundaries of a national park has its rules, but one of the best things is the water source, open, accessible and drinkable- straight out of the lakes or flowing streams. The water comes melted straight from the ice, cool, filtered and as good as it gets. Nothing better.

The Torres of Torres

I’m sure I treaded across paradise over the last few weeks, really, and I knew that even before my penultimate national park, which was the big one, the best one South America had- Torres Del Paine. To get to Torres, it meant I had to cross over the border and into Chile, I did and I came I saw and I concurred. What a spectacle it was too. Also tough, and the weather was as rough as Patagonia could throw at me, rain and wind (we’re talking Hurricane force). I even came back on my last night to find my tent knocked down from where it was sheltered. Whatever right, but on top of that I got summer as well. The sun made it a beautiful place to be, but with a huge backpack on my back and up steep inclines (ouch) in an area with one of the thinnest layers of ozone in the world it was hot and I probably even tanned a bit.

But still, don’t take anything as a complaint, Torres Del Paine was another place previously covered by National Geographic over the years, another backdrop and busy as. I took four days around the park and wanted to do what’s known as the ‘W’ but couldn’t, the park had been burnt down partially in December just past so I modified things a bit. I never missed out on anything, the part of the park I didn’t visit was the part with a glacier, I still got up at 4am to trek up a mountain and have breakfast up there and it was worth it.

I didn’t miss the glacier because I’d already seen one. While in Argentina I popped over from El Calafate to see Glacier Perito Merino. One of the Worlds few advancing glaciers, with sounds matching its grandeur. Ice would creak off the recrystallized snow which shone different shades of blue and just roar as it crashed into the iceberg channel below.

Glacier Perito Merino

It’s difficult to summarise what I should be saying and what you should be reading, I’ve learnt a lot about how to live my life, and to live simply and just get on with things. Really. It doesn't seem a long time but different situations everyday meant I needed to react to a different challenge. A political challenge even came up with an Argentinian and we talked politics, the Falklands.

It's thanks to this part in my trip I can appreciate some things more on a Geographical scale, the physical side. On my last day in Torres Del Paine as if the park was dancing, gusts of wind would blow so often, changing direction and treading across the water, causing tides to rise and spray, then the sun would shine, casting a rainbow over the blue lagoon. I'm even more content with how amazing the world is.

Now I'm in Ushuaia (The World’s most southern city), I'm complacent. I've seen the end of the world and even with extremity, the harshest of things can be the most beautiful when nature is involved.

Ushuaia- Fin Del Mundo

Living out of a tent in Patagonia was worth every second. Now? Tent sold and tonight I fly to Buenos Aires, City of culture!

Back to the routine

Hitting the road.

It seems I'm back to that old routine, waking up at 5am for that 6 O'clock bus. Luck would seem to be on my side, arriving with 5 minutes and getting the last seat. Then again the crying babies and baby milk spilt on me, hardly luck. “Anything but the hat, stay away from the hat…” My message para todos niños (for all children).

Who am I kidding though, going local is what I love.

This all means I'm finally out of La Paz, a city that you don't hate, well at least I didn't hate it, but it did let me realise a lot about Bolivia as a country. The way that Bolivia is as a country is strange, with its beauty, land locked self and bright personalities, troubled past and also determination. I can’t put a finger on it. The country has rich, has poor, Bolivia is South America’s poorest country but it’s more than that.
Admittedly, I found Bolivia to be a difficult country and the people reflected that but they ALL had a soft spot, and when found you’d be talking to some really warm hearted folk willing to share a serious laugh with unguarded humour. Humour on a level that you share with any long-time friend, honestly, but of course first comes finding that soft spot.

Two Bolivians in a small village along the way.

As brilliant as Bolivia is, it unfortunately has that title- "South America’s poorest country" and that in itself makes things difficult within a difficult country. Bolivia is far from its title... People can be difficult and the majority of the time they are, but also some of the nicest people I've met have been Bolivians.

La Paz meant Christmas, it meant New Years, and fair enough a lot has happened since my last update. I visited one of the most inspiring sites imaginable; Machu Picchu and I honestly loved it and was blown away. I got there by any means possible, and it wasn't the Inca Trail, but it was a great trip. Starting in Cusco and then heading to Ollataytamba (Olly for short) and that was a great town, where I met some brilliant people.
From Olly, I found out the hard way that Machu Picchu really is the biggest tourist attraction in South America and of course the price tag to get there showed that .The only feasible way of getting there was by train and the alternative at the time, was walking along the train tracks for 8 hours which is meant to be illegal, so let’s just say I took the train (which I did).

So 8 hours later I got to the town for Machu Picchu (joke- 2hours!), bought my ticket after they wouldn’t accept my student card, got to my bed and slept. Come 4am I was up and it was pouring. There was a bus going up to Machu Picchu but after paying full price for my entrance I chose to walk up. Still pouring, I got out my hiking gear and soldiered on for 2 hours up the vertical path and in all fairness it was a bitch. Worth it, but a bitch.

Sitting over Machu Picchu with some Peruvians.

The best thing about it all though, was that I had no guide. I was tired when I arrived but I was one of the first people there but it was also cloudy. I made my way around for a bit and eventually to the view point where I was able to sit literally for a few hours, until a point when it hit me. It was bad enough getting up there that morning in all my gear, but then for the Inca’s to have a city up in the clouds however many hundreds of years ago, and to have built it, seems incredible. How did they do it? and I guess the best part is no one really knows. You can sit, get lost and easily wonder. That’s the best part.

Bolivian Internet is the reason this is so long, it's near impossible to get things done because a snail running backwards would be faster. Anyhow, I've been to Copacabana and The Island of the Sun and trekked and all sorts. I've ridden La Paz's World famous Death Road, clearly survived and after falling off a good 4 times I think I deserved my survivor’s shirt.

From there it's been a celebration shall we say, New Years and Christmas, obviously different from home and I'm glad to say I've been here, but with my holidays like that? Never again.

I’m finishing this post from the other side of Bolivia’s border. From La Paz I headed south because I needed to get to Argentina, and here I am. Before making it to the border, I did though make sure to visit Oruro, Potosi, Tupiza and Uyuni in Bolivia, all which were nice places and really different from La Paz. From there, I managed to get a better picture of Bolivia. Being able to speak Spanish has its benefits. I’m told I should visit other parts of Bolivia in the east, and so that’s my intention hopefully during this trip.

Salar de Uyuni

Bolivia doesn’t have a tourist industry that markets the country that much, and so that’s why not a lot of people know that one very cool natural landscape is in Bolivia. Besides telling you how they’re formed, I can say that The World’s largest Salt flats are in Bolivia. In Uyuni to be precise.
After getting to Uyuni somehow, I visited the Salt Flats, and they were amazing, especially as now is the rainy season, so they weren’t dry, but instead covered with a layer of water that in some places reflected everything perfectly. Because of all of that, sunset was amazing, and cold, but amazing. I’m definitely going back again. Many more great photos to be taken.

From the Bolivian outback, I got off a horse a few days ago and came to the Argentinian border, an experience difficult but now done. I’ve been through it all in Bolivia, even worked for a while in an Irish Bar in La Paz! Onwards, and the challenges just keep on coming. Now I’m trying to get a hold of Argentinian Spanish which isn’t easy to understand but I’m also moving and heading south, as far south as possible. The most southern city in the World. Ushuaia’s been calling me for a while now, and I’m going! To the End of the World!

For now, chau.

PS: I bought some film which expired during the last Olympics, good old Bolivia, and yes believe me, this is a great thing!

PSS: Never play football against Bolivians in the World’s Highest City (La Paz). There’s a reason they “blame it on the altitude” and no one apart from the local team ever wins!