Patagonia and all it's wonders

Home is where my bag is

The next part of this entry starts abruptly just after the one below. Having arrived in Argentina and spent a few days in the northern city of Salta- beautiful place, but then gotten onto a bus heading south to Mendoza. 18 hours. I did everything and saw enough but since the start of my travels, I've been looking forward to getting as far south as possible and seeing Patagonia. This part in my trip had been the most unplanned but I knew what I wanted, independent travel, something new and that bit more uncomfortable. I knew all I needed was a tent. 

No hostels, none of the comforts. Believe me when I say I've pushed my body.

A casual sunday stroll through Torres Del Paine

Any map would show how large Patagonia is, and at a size twice that of some of the countries I visited further north, it’s an awe inspiring wild destination filled with beauty, ruggedness and sounds unmatched by others. Imagination runs wild just at the thought of Patagonia with aged forests, marching glaciers, treasured scapes, incredible wildlife and even clear night skies that open up to the further extent of beauty that climbs up and over the planet. Wild and untamed, Patagonia was sure to be a challenge and only a few dare to seriously challenge the notorious Patagonian climate. Through the day, through the night, exposed and under the stars without a solid roof. Sure, home comforts can easily be found but where's the challenge? Natures sights, natures sounds, natures extremity.

I started the journey solo and around what some consider the Lake District part of Argentinia, but some consider Patagonia. The first of many nights in a tent went well, and funny enough I was camping right next to a lake. That’s when everything opened up, with first the night skies that gave me a continuous view over the wonders above to the next night with insight into some people’s simple way of life. Eventually I was in a rhythm and would go days and even weeks without needing to speak English.

Summer time is the best time to travel in Patagonia, more is open, weathers better, but you still get cold nights. You give some, you lose some. My time was always filled and with National Parks and everything, everyday had a hike. I went to Junin, San Martin, Bariloche, Esquel and a whole other heap of places, the weather had even been on my side, until when I reached Bariloche which meant a few days waiting out on the weather, rain, rain and more rain. Time is slow down in Patagonia but supposedly for the better, patience is a virtue and each day brings something new. Camping out from the city meant a long trek but with the chocolate capital of Argentina, Bariloche was worth the trek after a few days in the rain. All I can tell you is chocolate is sweeter when it’s free and warm.

After a few days doing all, I’d cover some distance due south on Argentina’s buses, easy enough and worth it each time. On one day I had an 18 hour wait for a bus, in a terminal without luggage storage, so literally 18 hours just sitting. Yeah I know, and it was a 12 hour ride once the bus had gotten there, but I got through it.

Empty trails!

I’ve seen a few national parks, and fallen in love with a few as well. I visited El Chalten, Argentina’s trekking capital and stayed there for a few days, with a 35km hike on one day, and hours more the other days. I couldn't help it, my feet found a rhythm in that place and I loved just being there, it happened that if I planned everything right and down to the T, I could be in places and be the only one, and although the national park in Chalten wasn't that busy, it could get crowded. Despite it all and with perfectly planned treks, I saw most things in the park. Mountains, lagoons and backdrops from ancient National Geographic magazines. Being in Chalten, just wowed me. Easily one of my favourite places in the World.

Living within the boundaries of a national park has its rules, but one of the best things is the water source, open, accessible and drinkable- straight out of the lakes or flowing streams. The water comes melted straight from the ice, cool, filtered and as good as it gets. Nothing better.

The Torres of Torres

I’m sure I treaded across paradise over the last few weeks, really, and I knew that even before my penultimate national park, which was the big one, the best one South America had- Torres Del Paine. To get to Torres, it meant I had to cross over the border and into Chile, I did and I came I saw and I concurred. What a spectacle it was too. Also tough, and the weather was as rough as Patagonia could throw at me, rain and wind (we’re talking Hurricane force). I even came back on my last night to find my tent knocked down from where it was sheltered. Whatever right, but on top of that I got summer as well. The sun made it a beautiful place to be, but with a huge backpack on my back and up steep inclines (ouch) in an area with one of the thinnest layers of ozone in the world it was hot and I probably even tanned a bit.

But still, don’t take anything as a complaint, Torres Del Paine was another place previously covered by National Geographic over the years, another backdrop and busy as. I took four days around the park and wanted to do what’s known as the ‘W’ but couldn’t, the park had been burnt down partially in December just past so I modified things a bit. I never missed out on anything, the part of the park I didn’t visit was the part with a glacier, I still got up at 4am to trek up a mountain and have breakfast up there and it was worth it.

I didn’t miss the glacier because I’d already seen one. While in Argentina I popped over from El Calafate to see Glacier Perito Merino. One of the Worlds few advancing glaciers, with sounds matching its grandeur. Ice would creak off the recrystallized snow which shone different shades of blue and just roar as it crashed into the iceberg channel below.

Glacier Perito Merino

It’s difficult to summarise what I should be saying and what you should be reading, I’ve learnt a lot about how to live my life, and to live simply and just get on with things. Really. It doesn't seem a long time but different situations everyday meant I needed to react to a different challenge. A political challenge even came up with an Argentinian and we talked politics, the Falklands.

It's thanks to this part in my trip I can appreciate some things more on a Geographical scale, the physical side. On my last day in Torres Del Paine as if the park was dancing, gusts of wind would blow so often, changing direction and treading across the water, causing tides to rise and spray, then the sun would shine, casting a rainbow over the blue lagoon. I'm even more content with how amazing the world is.

Now I'm in Ushuaia (The World’s most southern city), I'm complacent. I've seen the end of the world and even with extremity, the harshest of things can be the most beautiful when nature is involved.

Ushuaia- Fin Del Mundo

Living out of a tent in Patagonia was worth every second. Now? Tent sold and tonight I fly to Buenos Aires, City of culture!